England
Derbyshire

Hardwick Hall

"Hardwick Hall, more glass than wall"

This rhyming couplet, though not literally true, does convey some of the awe felt by viewers of Bess of Hardwick's monumental creation, Hardwick Hall. Bess, more properly Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury, erected at Hardwick one of the most overpowering Elizabethan houses in the country, a testament to her ambition, power, and wealth.

Robert Smythson (also responsible for Longleat in Wiltshire) was the architect employed by the Countess to create her "statement" at Hardwick. Smythson began work in 1590 and the house was ready for Bess to move into in 1597. She remained at Hardwick until her death in 1608.

The house stands on a rise, dominating the surrounding countryside. Six projecting towers stand at the sides of the rectangular house, each tower capped by a large "ES" crest, for Elizabeth of Shrewsbury. The walls are pierced by the huge multipaned windows that gave rise to the famous rhyme. Beside the forecourt stands the partial ruins of Hardwick Old Hall, Bess's abortive first attempt at a home here.

The interior of Hardwick is unique among Elizabethan houses in that it has remained remarkably unchanged since it was first inhabited, and the contents are almost entirely original. The carved wooden furniture, elaborate plasterwork, and fabulous fireplaces are as Bess would have known them. There is a wonderful collection of late Elizabethan neeedlework.

The upper floors of the house are the most richly furnished; a great processional staircase leads to the High Great Chamber, with a painted frieze topping 16th century tapestries on the wall. In a window alcove stands the intricately inlaid table made to celebrate Bess's marriage to the Earl of Shrewsbury. The Great High Chamber leads into the Long Gallery, lined with portraits of Tudor royals and Bess's family.

Hardwick Hall is one of Englands great show homes, and it stands as a memorial to the power - and ego - of its remarkable founder.

For more images of the house and gardens at Hardwick, see our Hardwick Hall Photo Gallery

LOCATION
Hardwick Hall
Doe Lea
Chesterfield
Derbyshire
S44 5QJ
Telephone : 01246 850430
Fax : 01246 858424
Web: www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hbcache/property67.htm

Nearby:
Stainsby Mill - on the Hardwick estate is this working water-powered 18th century corn mill.

Related:
Hardwick Old Hall
Hardwick Hall Photo Gallery

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© David Ross and Britain Express